The past few months, I’ve been in a real dining frenzy.
I’m working on compiling a 2024 Top Restaurants package and have been busy making the rounds to places all across the area to see which places will make the cut.
Suffice it to say, I’ve had a lot to eat: There’s been good, there’s been bad and there’s been a little bit of ugly. And there are some dishes that I just can’t seem to get out of my mind. From creamy pimento cheese croquettes to a luscious lamb vindaloo pasta, here are 10 plates to put on your list the next time you head out for a meal.
Mushroom tartine at Mise en Place
Last week, I dropped into Mise en Place for dinner with a friend. Every bite of our meal was lovely and the service was excellent. Honestly, I’d expect nothing less from a team that’s been at it since 1986. But the dish I can’t stop thinking about was the barbecue spice-roasted mushroom tartine ($17.37), which featured a meaty mushroom medley on top of thick planks of grilled sourdough bread. A smooth layer of whipped goat cheese provided a luscious canvas and the plate was finished with a drizzle of Alabama white barbecue sauce, a shower of crispy-fried cipollini onions and a thick ribbon of charred scallion. Rich and over-the-top, yes — but still a dish that I’d order a thousand times over.
442 W. Grand Central Ave., Tampa. 813-254-5373. miseonline.com.
Prime-a-nite roll at Ocean Prime
This off-the-menu special ($34) at Tampa’s Ocean Prime is a mash-up of two of the spot’s most popular rolls, the Prime Roll and the Dynamite Roll. What does that mean? A hearty roll toppling with tempura-fried shrimp tossed in spicy mayo paired with cream cheese, scallions and beef carpaccio — delicious and so decadent.
2205 N. Westshore Blvd., Tampa. 813-490-5288. ocean-prime.com.
Monica’s Cornbread at Juno & The Peaco*ck
The restaurant has barely been open a month, but there’s already plenty of hype surrounding this St. Petersburg newcomer. During a media dinner, a server recommended we try the spot’s signature cornbread ($10), a stellar suggestion that featured three thick, golden slices of sweet cornbread served with a hot honey butter we couldn’t get enough of.
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Explore all your options400 Beach Drive NE, St. Petersburg. 727-258-4222. junoandthepeaco*ck.com.
Agnolotti at Rocca
There’s good pasta and then there’s really good pasta. It’s hard to pick which contender in that genre is my favorite at this Tampa Heights stunner, but if pressed to choose one I’d probably opt for the agnolotti, which has for several years now graced the menu, and for very good reason. A spicy salame Calabrese and ricotta mixture fills the chewy, perfectly al dente pockets of pasta, which are tossed with juicy, just barely cooked cherry tomatoes and a dusting of buttery breadcrumbs.
323 W. Palm Ave., Tampa. 813-906-5445. roccatampa.com.
Pimento cheese croquettes at Edison: Food + Drink Lab
For the last 12 years, this Tampa standby has managed to stay contemporary and exciting, impressing diners (including this one) with creative, envelope-pushing menus. On a recent visit, I couldn’t get enough of the pimento cheese croquettes ($18), and the genius pairing with a sweet and jammy short rib marmalade. Rolled in a salty cracker crust and served with a tangy Carolina mustard slaw, this might just be one of the best bites I’ve had all summer.
912 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa. 813-254-7111. edison-tampa.com.
Cedar Key clams at Steamers
No, Cedar Key isn’t in the immediate Tampa Bay area, but it is home to the best clams in the state and a drive up north is well worth it to savor these directly from the source. While working on a story about clam farmers facing an uncertain future (Cedar Key was hit by two hurricanes within the last year), I stumbled upon Steamers, a restaurant overlooking the water. Cooked in a super flavorful garlic and white wine broth, this might have been one of the best bowls of clams ($14.99) I’ve ever had. And if you’re not feeling that long of a drive, don’t fret: Those very same Cedar Key clams are easy to find on restaurant menus and seafood markets much closer to home.
420 Dock St., Cedar Key. 352-543-5142. steamerscedarkey.com
Vindaloo Pappardelle at Rooster & The Till
Last winter, the celebrated Seminole Heights restaurant celebrated its 10th anniversary — a well-deserved milestone that feels particularly impressive in today’s volatile market. On a recent visit I fell hard for the spot’s lamb vindaloo pappardelle ($27), which paired thick noodles with hunks of stewed lamb neck, tamarind tomatoes and a punchy pistachio pistou on a bed of preserved lemon yogurt. It’s a dish that fuses warm Mediterranean spice with bright notes of acidity and plenty of texture — a perfect plate I haven’t been able to stop thinking about.
6500 N Florida Ave., Tampa. 813-374-8940. roosterandthetill.com.
Salt cod croquettes at Small Bar
Get ‘em while you can: These tasty, crispy-fried salt cod croquettes ($18) have enjoyed a good deal of time on the temporary, always-changing menu at Small Bar, and it’s anyone’s guess how long they’ll be around. Paired with a creamy “mayoketchup” aioli and garlicky chimichurri, these were gone in an instant. Like the concept itself (Small Bar is a pop-up restaurant in the back of Bandit Coffee Co.), the menu here is constantly in flux.
2662 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. instagram.com/smallbarstp/
Sunday snack tostadas at Streetlight Taco
A sleeper hit at this South Tampa newcomer, these crazy delicious, if slightly unorthodox, crab tostadas ($13) hit all the right sweet-savory notes by combining lump crab meat, a generous schmear of cream cheese, fresh mangos, and a bright and citrusy mango salsa.
4004 Henderson Blvd., Tampa. 813-217-9158. streetlighttacos.com/
Apricot pastry at Tous les Jours (inside Lotte Market)
There’s a lot to love at this Asian grocery store in New Tampa, but I’m particularly smitten with the treats sold at Tous les Jours, the South Korean bakery and pastry shop tucked inside the spot’s stellar food hall. Whatever you do, don’t skip the poached apricot Danish ($3.95), which combines poached apricots with a sweet custard base, strawberry jam and cream.
17605 Bruce B. Downs Blvd., Tampa. 813-392-1107. lotteplaza.com.